Care of Orphaned Raccoons

 

CARE OF ORPHANED RACOONS

By Woodrum Pierson

 

Introduction

Raccoons, as with opossums, squirrels, armadillos and many species of birds, have adapted to an urban environment.  This brings us into more frequent contact with them.  Often, due to natural processes or man's activity, the young of these urban survivors are orphaned.  You may find yourself in a position to care for an orphaned wild animal.

No wild animal should be kept as a pet.  The cardinal rule you must keep in mind is that your mission is to care for your charge until it is able to survive on its own in its natural environment.  This information sheet is a guide to help you raise orphaned raccoons.

 

Natural History

The Northern Raccoon (Procyon lotor), has a range extending from Southern Canada, throughout most of the U.S. to Panama.  It occupies habitats as diverse as marshes, swamps, mountains, arid and urban areas.  The raccoon is naturally active at night.  Although it is classified as a "meat eater", it will eat nearly anything including insects, fruit, seeds, nuts and tender vegetation.

Nesting and resting sites are in tree hollows, abandoned bird nests, under debris, in dens of other animals or in man-made structures.

Following is a brief outline of reproductive and developmental events:  Mating season - January thru February; Gestation - 63 days; Birth date - April/May; Litter size - 3 to 6; Eyes open - 2 to 3 weeks; Weaning period - 10 to 12 weeks; Separation from Mother - Fall/Winter; Weight (average) - at birth, 5 to 7 ounces, Juvenile, 7 to 12 pounds; Adults, 12 to 18 pounds.

 

General Tips

1. Never try to make a house pet of your raccoon.

2. Its cleanliness and comfort should dictate your procedure.

3.  Always wash your hands before and after handling a raccoon.

4. Keep its feeding utensils and quarters clean at all times.

5. Keep your operation simple.  Feeding and maintenance can be very time consuming.

6. If signs of ill-health appear, get help immediately. Call us for advice.

7. Your health is paramount. Be wise when handling a raccoon. The claws and saliva often harbor

uncommon bacteria. A bite, scratch or contact with an open wound can result in a serious

infection.

8. Take time to be a friend.  Young raccoons are personable and enjoy human contact.  They like

to play and be held, scratched and stroked.  It is an important part of their development.

9. In summary, raccoons are as individual as any other animal and this sheet is intended only as a

guide.  If the information doesn't quite work, give us a call. There is a variety of techniques that

work and are ultimately good for the animal.

 

Feeding

a) Never feed a raccoon junk food or table scraps.  The diet should be simple and consist of high

protein food, fruit, milk and water.

b) Milk formula:  3 oz. whole cow's milk, 1/2 teaspoon Esbilac and a few drop of Multi-Pet

vitamins (both from a pet shop).  Refrigerate and warm only amount needed for feeding.  Never

put milk in a bowl for lapping.

c) Young raccoons up to 2-3 weeks old should be stimulated to urinate before feeding.  A cotton

swab or soft rag is suitable.

d) Newborns and up to 10-12 week old raccoons should receive milk only.  Use a 4 oz. pet nurser

found at pet stores.  Young racoons to 4 weeks old should be fed just before you retire and the

first thing in the morning.  Here is a general guide to quantity and frequency of feeding:  up to 2

weeks old, 1/2 oz., every 3 hours; 2-4 weeks old, 1-2 oz., every 3 hours; 4-6 weeks old, 2-3 oz.,

every 3 hours; 6-8 weeks old, 3-4 oz., 3 times a day; 8-12 weeks old, 4-6 ozs., twice a day.

e) Individuals between 10 and 12 weeks old should be introduced to an egg scrambled with milk

formula and fruit (grapes, bananas, apples, etc.).  By 12 weeks of age the diet should be one

scrambled egg and fruit, twice daily.  Always maintain a bowl of fresh water.  Keep the egg /

fresh diet for about 4 weeks.

f) The final diet should be dry dog or cat food, fruit and water.  Feed twice daily.

 

Housing

One of the most important, yet least rewarding responsibilities, is maintenance of the living quarters.  Keep it simple.  Young raccoons can be kept in a cardboard box lined with newspaper and layered with towels or rags.  A heating pad should be placed underneath the box and kept on low; check the temperature.  Maintain the quarters daily.  As your animal gets older, you must enlarge the housing.  I use a 15 - 20 gallon glass aquarium.  Eventually you will have to go to a large wire cage, placed outside.  

The cage for juvenile raccoons should be large enough to allow climbing, playing and pacing.

The size depends upon how many raccoons you have and their age.  Call us for advice.  A wire mesh or removable tray for the bottom is best for quick maintenance.  Toys should be provided at all age levels.  A stuffed teddy bear and  Mardi Gras beads are good for pre-water aged individuals.  Mardi Gras beads, rubber balls, doubloons and rawhide bones are great for older racoons.

 

Rapport

Developing a rapport with raccoons is natural.  Young raccoons are personable, enjoy human contact and respond to your affection.  There is a fine line between the emotional input needed for healthy development and over doing it.  Always keep in mind that your raccoon is not a pet and that your mission is to release it in the best emotional and physical condition possible.  It's hard to do but it's best for the animal.

 

Health

Raccoons are hardy animals and usually no health problems occur.  However, if you receive an ailing coon or your racoon becomes sick, frequent feeding is necessary (every hour, the amount depends on the animal).  One stress formula is the regular milk formula supplemented with 1/2 tsp. Karo, a few extra drops of Multi-Pet vitamins and 1 oz. of water.  Keep your animal warm and dry.  Call us for advice.  The New Orleans SPCA and Crowder Veterinarian Clinic may be able to help you.  Older raccoons on solid food should receive one egg, scrambled with milk, fruit and water 3 or 4 times a day.

 

Release

Releasing your raccoons is an emotional event for you and the coon.  Release time should be gradual if possible and you should reduce significantly the amount of your personal contact.  The target date should be from late August to early October.  A later release may jeopardize your raccoon.  Never keep your raccoon over one year.  The release site should be a similar habitat from which the coon was rescued (excluding urban areas).  Ideally the raccoon should be free to come and go from its cage.  Provide a feeding station until it depends occasionally upon your food.  Reduce the availability of your food gradually.  Finally, you must move your raccoon to the permanent release site. 

It is a lot of work but it is very rewarding.  Our raccoons have provided us with endless hours of joy and entertainment.

 

References

 

Collett, Rosemary K., Charlie Briggs. Rescue and Home Care of Native Wildlife.  Hawthorn Books, Inc.  1974.

 

Hamilton, Jr., William J., John O. Whitaker Jr.  Mammals of the Eastern United States.  Second

edition. Cornell University Press.  1979.

 

Lowery Jr., George H.  The Mammals of Louisiana and Its Adjacent Waters.  Louisiana State University

Press.  1974.